Formulation
and Stability Test of Physical Quality of Lotion Preparations from Moringa
Oleifera L. Leaf Extract with Various Concentrations of Emulsifier TEA
Andi Selvi Mutiaa,1*, Jumaina,2,
Arisantya,3
aPoltekkes
Kemenkes Makassar, South Sulawesi, Indonesia
1[email protected], 2[email protected], 3[email protected] �
ABSTRACT
The tendency to use herbal ingredients has entered
the world of beauty leading to increased research on cosmetic and plant
formulations used to be cosmetic active substances. There are many plants that
can be used, one of which is the Moringa plant which is considered sacred
because it has many benefits. This study aims to determine whether Moringa leaf
extract with variations in TEA concentrations of 2.5%, 3%, and 3.5% is
formulated into lotions to produce an effective, stable, and safe cream. This
type of research is experimental; physical quality testing is carried out
before and after the storage conditions are accelerated (Freeze-thaw),
including organoleptic tests, homogeneity tests, viscosity tests, pH tests,
dispersion tests, and emulsion type tests. Moringa Leaf Extract can be
formulated into lotion preparations with variations in TEA concentrations of
2.5%, 3%, and 3.5%. The results of the physical quality test show that all
formulas meet the requirements of physical qualification. Third, the dosage
formulation of Moringa leaf extract lotion (Moringa oleifera L.) with variations in TEA emulsifying
concentrations of 2.5%, 3%, and 3.5% based on physical quality stability tests
all meet the requirements.
Keywords: lotion, physical
quality, moringa leaves, TEA.
Correspondent: Andi
Selvi Mutia
Email: [email protected]�
INTRODUCTION
The high level of public awareness of
the importance of caring for the skin is one of the triggers for increased
invitations for cosmetic skin care products (Craddock et al., 2022). Using cosmetics
on the skin is one of the efforts to protect the skin (Megantara et al., 2017). Cosmetics are
materials or preparations used on the body�s exterior, which function as
cleansers and deodorizers, which can change the body�s appearance, which can
protect the body and maintain the body in good condition (Meilani, 2021).
The trend of using herbal ingredients
has entered the beauty world, which has led to increased research on cosmetic
formulations and plants used to become active cosmetic substances (Araujo et al., 2022). The analysis is
carried out on plants whose use has been passed down for generations or
research that aims to find innovations and variations of new plant active
ingredients (Faccio, 2020). Many plants can
be used, one of which is the Moringa plant, which is considered sacred because
it has many benefits (Oktariani S,
2018).
Based on the phytochemical tests that
have been carried out, many compounds have been found that are useful as
antioxidants, including saponins, tannins, alkaloids, steroids, anthraquinones,
triterpenoids, and flavonoids. Moringa leaves contain the compound Quercetin, a
group of flavonoids 4 to 5 times stronger than vitamins E and C (Hardiyanthi, 2015).
Testing Moringa Leaf Extract with the
DPPH activity technique (1,1-Diphenyl-2-picryl Hydrazil), which is expressed by
IC50 (50% Inhibitor Concentration), namely 92.5283 ppm This means that antioxidants
from Moringa leaves are active in inhibiting free radicals (Hardiyanthi, 2015). Free radicals can
be caused by Pollution and weather (Feng
et al., 2022). Free radicals can damage
collagen fibers and the dermis layer, which causes scaly, dry, wrinkled skin
and accelerates the aging process. Therefore, the skin needs antioxidants to
ward off free radicals (Ramos-Tovar & Muriel, 2023). Compounds
that can prevent and inhibit the occurrence of easily oxidized compounds are
called antioxidants (Santoso, 2021). Antioxidants can
slow down and avoid damage caused by free radicals (Yuslianti, 2018). To facilitate the
use of antioxidants, lotion preparations are made to make them easier to apply,
especially to the hands and body parts (Dominica & Handayani, 2019).
Lotion is part of skin care cosmetics
that can moisturize the skin while protecting the skin (Anggraeni,
2020). Cream includes an aqueous
phase and an oil phase. To counteract separation between the two steps, TEA
(Triethanolamine) is administered as an emulsifier to stabilize the lotion.
Lotion formulations are made with varying TEA concentrations which function as
alkalinizers and emulsifiers (Rahman et
al., 2013). However, the purpose of this
study was to formulate lotion preparations from Moringa oleifera L. leaf
extract with variations in TEA emulsifier concentrations and to determine the
stability of the physical quality of lotion preparations from Moringa oleifera
L. leaf extracts with variations in TEA emulsifier concentrations. The benefits
of research are as a place to apply the knowledge that has been obtained and
add insight in conducting research, as
a reference for further research related to Moringa Leaf extract on skin
health, providing scientific information to the public regarding the efficacy
of Moringa Leaf extract as one of the uses for making lotions, as well as providing information on how to
make good and correct Moringa Leaf extract lotion.
Based on the above background, the
researchers wanted to examine the formulation and stability test of the
physical quality of lotion preparations from Moringa leaf extract with
variations in TEA emulsifier concentrations. This study aims to formulate
lotion preparations from Moringa oleifera L. leaf extract with variations in
the concentration of TEA emulsifier and to determine the stability of the
physical quality of lotion preparations from Moringa oleifera L. leaf extract
with variations in TEA emulsifiers. Concentration.
METHODS
Research Design
This type of research is experimental and aims to
formulate lotion preparations from Moringa oleifera L. Leaf extract with
variations in TEA emulsifier concentrations.
Tools and Materials
The tools used in this study were a mortar and
stamper, stir bar, spatula, porcelain cup, water bath, measuring cup, watch
glass, analytical balance, dropping pipette, horn spoon, pH meter, incubator,
refrigerator, and lotion container. The materials used in this study were
Moringa leaves (Moringa oleifera L.), cetyl alcohol, stearic acid,
lanolin, TEA, glycerin, propylparaben, methylparaben, Tocopherol, distilled
water, and fragrance.
Formula Designz
Table 1. Formulation of Moringa Leaf extract lotion (Moringa oleifera L.)
|
Materials |
Concentration (%) |
Function |
Concentration (%) |
||
|
F1 |
F2 |
F3 |
|||
|
Moringa
Leaf Extract |
5 |
5 |
5 |
Active
Substance |
3-5 (Onainor, 2019) |
|
Cetyl
Alcohol |
5 |
5 |
5 |
Emollient |
2-5 (Excipient
5, 2006) |
|
Stearic
Acid |
6 |
6 |
6 |
Emulsifier |
1-20 (Excipient
5, 2006) |
|
Lanolin |
3 |
3 |
3 |
Moisturizer |
≤ 3 (Excipient
5, 2006) |
|
TEA |
2,5 |
3 |
3,5 |
Emulsifier |
2-4 (Excipient
5, 2006) |
|
Gliserin |
5 |
5 |
5 |
Humektan |
≤ 30 (Excipient 5, 2006) |
|
Propil
Paraben |
0,01 |
0,01 |
0,01 |
Preservative |
0,01-0,6 (Excipient
5, 2006) |
|
Metil
Paraben |
0,02 |
0,02 |
0,02 |
Preservative |
0,02-0,3 (Excipient
5, 2006) |
|
Tokoferol |
0,05 |
0,05 |
0,05 |
Anti-Oxidant |
(Kharisma,
dkk 2019) |
|
Pewangi |
0,1 |
0,1 |
0,1 |
Odor
Enhancer |
0,1-0,5 |
|
Aquadest |
ad
100 |
ad
100 |
ad
100 |
Solvent |
|
How to Make Lotions
The first
step in making Moringa Leaf lotion is to melt the oil phase, namely
propylparaben, cetyl alcohol, stearic acid, and lanolin. Dissolve Nipagin using
hot water, then melt the water phase, which consists of Nipagin and TEA, which
has been dissolved with Aquadest. Then, prepare a hot mortar. After the two steps
melted, they were put together in a hot mortar and stirred until a lotion base
was produced. After that, glycerin was added to the Moringa Leaf Extract. Then,
the mixture was mixed into the lotion base and crushed until homogeneous. After
being homogeneous, the Tocopherol is added and crushed until homogeneous, and
then fragrance is added. After that, it is put into the lotion preparation
container.
Stability Test
The stability test of lotion preparations is carried
out to determine the physical stability of the lotion using the Freeze-thaw
technique. This test was carried out based on the effect of changing the
temperature of the Cycling test at 4oC and 40oC, which was carried out in 6
cycles, and one process lasted 24 hours (Wildaniah & Ganda, 2019).
Physical Quality Evaluation
1.
Organoleptic observation k
2.
Homogeneity test
The
preparation of Moringa Leaf extract lotion is put into the container. Spindle
number 6 is installed, ensuring the rotor is immersed in the practice. Then,
turn on the viscometer and make sure that the spindle rotates. This test uses a
viscometer at a reading of 100 rpm. Observations were made on the viscometer
needle, leading to the viscosity scale number, and documentation was carried
out. The requirement for suitable viscosity for topical preparations in the
form of lotions is 2000 � 50000 cP (SNI 16-4399-1996).
4.
pH measurement
The pH test is carried out by preparing the lotion; then, the pH meter
is inserted into the cream. After that, the results of the scale readings
were recorded. Stable pH is in the range of 4.5 � 6.5.
5.
Spreadability Test
The preparation is weighed as much as 0.5 grams, placed on top of the
watch glass, put another watch glass, given a weight of 150 g, and left for 60
seconds. After that, the diameter was measured, and the lotion distribution was
recorded. Standard Power spread ranges from 5 � 7 cm.
6.
Emulsion Type Test
Coloring is given to the lotion by adding methylene blue. If the
preparation is homogeneous with methylene blue, the cream is an oil-in-water
emulsion type (Ulfa, Maria., Himawan, Achmad., Kalni, Sri, 2019).
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
Table 2. The accelerated
stability method with three replications was used to perform organoleptic test
results for Moringa leaf extract lotion ( Moringa oleifera L.) before
and after storage.
|
Formulas |
Organoleptic |
|||||
|
Before storage accelerated |
After storage accelerated |
|||||
|
Consistency |
Color |
Aroma |
Consistency |
Color |
Aroma |
|
|
F1 2.5% |
Semi-solid |
Green |
Melons special |
Semi-solid |
Green |
Melons special |
|
F2 3% |
Semi-solid |
Green |
Melons special |
Semi-solid |
Green |
Melons special |
|
F3 3.5% |
Semi-solid |
Green |
Melons special |
Semi-solid |
Green |
Melons special |
Table 3. The accelerated stability method with three replications was used for the
homogeneous test results for Moringa leaf extract lotion (Moringa oleifera L.)
before and after storage.
|
Formulas |
Before Accelerated Storage |
After Expedited Storage |
Condition |
Results |
|
F1 2.5% |
Homogeneous |
Homogeneous |
There are no parts that do not mix |
Qualify |
|
F2 3% |
Homogeneous |
Homogeneous |
Qualify |
|
|
F3 3.5% |
Homogeneous |
Homogeneous |
Qualify |
Table 4. The viscosity test results for preparing Moringa Leaf extract
lotion (Moringa oleifera L.) before and after storage using the
accelerated stability method with three replications.
|
Formulas |
Before storage |
After storage |
Condition |
Results |
||
|
F1 2.5 % |
I |
7119 |
I |
4675 |
2000-50000 cP |
Qualify |
|
|
II |
7118 |
II |
4658 |
||
|
III |
7102 |
III |
4559 |
|||
|
Average |
7113 |
4630 |
||||
|
F2 3 % |
I |
6386 |
I |
4724 |
Qualify |
|
|
|
II |
6446 |
II |
4647 |
||
|
III |
6546 |
III |
4791 |
|||
|
Average |
6459 |
4720 |
||||
|
F3 3.5 % |
I |
11861 |
I |
9584 |
Qualify |
|
|
|
II |
12201 |
II |
9254 |
||
|
III |
12041 |
III |
9377 |
|||
|
Average |
12034 |
9405 |
|
|||
Table 5. The
results of testing the pH of the Moringa
Leaf extract lotion preparation (Moringa oleifera L) before and after
storage with the accelerated stability method with three replications
|
Formulas |
Before Accelerated
Storage |
After
Expedited Storage |
Condition |
Results |
|||
|
F1 2.5 % |
I |
6,42 |
I |
6,40 |
4.5 - 6.5 |
Qualify |
|
|
II |
6,42 |
II |
6,37 |
||||
|
III |
6,41 |
III |
6,39 |
||||
|
Average |
6,41 |
6,38 |
|||||
|
F2 3 % |
I |
6,41 |
I |
6,40 |
Qualify |
||
|
II |
6,39 |
II |
6,34 |
||||
|
III |
6,39 |
III |
6,34 |
||||
|
Average |
6,39 |
6,36 |
|||||
|
F3 3.5 % |
I |
6,38 |
I |
6.35 |
Qualify |
||
|
II |
6,39 |
II |
6.35 |
||||
|
III |
6,38 |
III |
6,33 |
||||
|
Average |
6,38 |
6,34 |
|
||||
Table 6. The results of testing the spreadability of Moringa
Leaf extract lotion (Moringa oleifera L) before and after storage using
the accelerated stability method with three replications.
|
Formulas |
Before
Accelerated Storage |
After
Expedited Storage |
Condition |
Results |
||||
|
F1 2.5 % |
I |
6,3 |
I |
6,2 |
5 � 7 cm |
Qualify |
||
|
II |
6,4 |
II |
6,1 |
|||||
|
III |
6,3 |
III |
6,2 |
|||||
|
Average |
6,3 |
6,1 |
||||||
|
F2 3 % |
I |
6,4 |
I |
6 |
Qualify |
|||
|
II |
6,4 |
II |
6,1 |
|||||
|
III |
6,1 |
III |
6,1 |
|||||
|
Average |
6,3 |
6 |
||||||
|
F3 3.5 % |
I |
5,9 |
I |
6 |
Qualify |
|||
|
II |
5,8 |
II |
6 |
|||||
|
III |
5,4 |
III |
6,1 |
|||||
|
Average |
5,7 |
6 |
|
|||||
Table 7. The results of testing the emulsion type of Moringa Leaf extract lotion (Moringa
oleifera L) before and after storage with the accelerated stability method
with three replications.
|
Formulas |
Before
Accelerated Storage |
After
Expedited Storage |
Results |
|
F1 2.5% |
Homogeneous |
Homogeneous |
M/A |
|
F2 3% |
Homogeneous |
Homogeneous |
M/A |
|
F3 3.5% |
Homogeneous |
Homogeneous |
M/A |
This research made a lotion with an active
extract of Moringa leaves (Moringa oleifera L.). This research aimed to
determine the effect of different concentrations of TEA in lotion formulations
by varying the TEA concentrations of 2.5%, 3%, and 3.5%, which act as
emulsifiers.
Simplicia Extraction of Moringa Leaves was done
by maceration technique. The choice of the maceration extraction technique is
because, in addition to the equipment used being simple, the process is also
very profitable if extraction is carried out on natural materials because only
by immersion will the solvent break through the walls and cell membranes that
contain active ingredients, then the active ingredients will be pushed out due
to different concentrations on the functional ingredient solution inside and
outside the cell. This incident will continue to repeat until the concentration
is balanced between the key inside and outside the cell (Najib, 2018). The simplicial
extraction was carried out for 15 days, and the solvent was significantly
changed. Maceration uses a sample of 400 grams. Moringa leaf simplicia is
soaked using 96% ethanol solvent and left to stand at room temperature,
protected from light while occasionally stirring. Furthermore, the soaking
results were filtered into the holding container; then, the solvent was
replaced up to 3 times. The resulting filtrate is then evaporated using a
rotary evaporator.
This lotion formula uses several ingredients,
namely Moringa Leaf (Moringa oleifera L.) as an active ingredient, Cetyl
alcohol as an emollient, Stearic acid and TEA as emulsifiers, Lanolin as a
moisturizer, Glycerin as a humectant, Propylparaben and Methylparaben for
preservation, Tocopherol for antioxidants, Aquades as a solvent and fragrance.
After making the lotion, the stability of the
preparation�s physical quality was tested, including organoleptic testing,
homogeneity, pH measurement, viscosity, spreadability, and emulsion type.
Organoleptic testing was carried out by observing
the preparation of Moringa Leaf extract lotion (Moringa oleifera L.), which
includes color, aroma, and dosage form. The results of organoleptic
observations for the three TEA concentration formulas of 2.5%, 3%, and 3.5%
before storage obtained green color with a distinctive smell of melon
fragrance, so the aroma produced was quite attractive. The results obtained
after storage were that the color, shape, and smell were the same as before
storage, so no changes occurred.�����������
A homogeneity test was carried out to determine
whether all the materials were homogeneous. Homogeneous preparations will
produce good quality preparations because homogeneous trials indicate that the
extract, in this case, the active substance, mixes well with the essential
ingredients so that all parts of the practice contain the same amount of active
substance (Dominica & Handayani, 2019 ). A homogeneity test is done by smearing the
preparation on transparent glass under the light. Table III, where the three
formulations of Moringa Leaf extract lotion before and after accelerated
storage, shows that the composition of the dispersed ingredients is homogeneous
and meets the requirements.
The viscosity test determines whether the
preparation can be applied quickly and stick to the skin. Lotion with a higher
viscosity will affect its application. The viscosity test of the cream was
carried out using a viscometer at a speed of 30 rpm with spindle number 4.
Table IV shows that the highest viscosity is found in F3, 3.5%; the lowest density
is in F2, 3% before and after accelerated storage, and the most inferior thickness
is located in F1, 2.5%. Based on the Two Way ANOVA test results, P = 0.000
(α <0.05) showed a significant difference between the viscosity test
before and after storage.
The pH test was carried out to determine whether
the lotion preparations met the pH requirements of topical preparations,
ranging from 4.5 to 6.5. If the pH is very acidic, it can cause skin
irritation, whereas if it is too wet, it can cause dryness and scaly skin (Dominica & Handayani, 2019). In table V,
the pH of the lotion preparations from the three formulas before and after
storage was accelerated with three replications at F1 2.5%, F2 3%, and F3 3.5%;
all met the requirements. Based on the Two Way ANOVA test results, P = 0.878
(α > 0.05) showed no significant difference between the pH test before
and after storage.
The spreadability test determines the lotion�s
ability to spread when applied to the skin. A good cream is usually easy to
spread when used, while the requirements for the lotion are 5-7 cm (Dominica & Handayani, 2019). The easier the cream
is to apply to the skin surface, the more the ointment will be in contact with
the skin surface, and the active ingredients will be well distributed. Testing
the spreadability of each Moringa Leaf extract lotion showed changes before and
after accelerated storage. In table VI, the spreadability test before and after
accelerated storage shows that the higher the concentration of TEA, the
spreading power decreases. In table 4.5, all formulas F1 2.5%, F2 3%, and F3
3.5% before and after storage meet the requirements. Based on the Two Way ANOVA
test results, P = 0.001 (α < 0.05) showed a significant difference
between the spreadability test before and after storage.
The emulsion type test on lotion preparations was
carried out to determine the emulsion type. In this emulsion-type test,
staining was carried out using methylene blue to determine whether the emulsion
type for lotion preparations was oil or water in oil. The results of the
emulsion type test in table VII for all formulas F1 2.5%, F2 3%, and F3 3.5%
before and after storage are oil-in-water (O/A) emulsion types.
CONCLUSION
Based on the results of the research
that has been done, it is concluded that Moringa oleifera L. Leaf Extract can
be formulated in lotion preparations with variations in TEA emulsifier
concentrations of 2.5%, 3%, and 3.5%. The three formulations of Moringa leaf
extract lotion (Moringa oleifera L.) with various TEA emulsifier
concentrations of 2.5%, 3%, and 3.5% based on the stability test of physical
quality all met the requirements.
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